For millennia, Ubud and                                            the areas immediately surrounding it                                            have been "centre stage" for                                            the fascinating drama of Balinese history.                                            During the Bronze Age (from 300BC),                                            the Ubud area was already a wellspring                                            of culture. This is evidenced by numerous                                            archaeological finds in the area, including                                            megalithic ruins and stepped pyramids,                                            some of which are now the
                                           foundations of active Hindu temples.                                            Remarkable Bronze Age artifacts around                                            Ubud include the enormous bronze gong                                            known as "The Moon of Pejeng."                                            It is still displayed in Pura Panataran                                            Sasih in Pejeng, east of Ubud.
                                           Nearby at the archaeological museum                                            in Bedulu are a collection of stone                                            sarcophagi unearthed in the area, which                                            give mute testimony to the death rituals                                            of the its people's ancestors.                                         
                             
In the 8th Century, a Javanese mystic,                                            called Rsi Markandya came to Bali from                                            Java on pilgrimage with a group of followers.                                            He meditated where the East and West                                            Wos Rivers meet in Campuan, on the edge                                            of Ubud, and declared the place holy.                                            Accordingly, a shrine was built, and                                            later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese                                            priest who is regarded as the father                                            of Bali's religious institutions and                                            practices. This temple is now known                                            as Pura Gunung Lebah or Pura Campuan.
                                       
                                         With the spread of Hindu-Buddhist culture                                            in Bali in the 10th to 12th Centuries,                                            Shivaite holy men established hermitages                                            and teaching monasteries near Ubud,                                            at the bequest of local rulers. The                                            temple-memorial complex at Gunung Kawi                                            and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (east                                            and northeast of Ubud) are undoubtedly                                            the most impressive architectural remains                                            from this period. By this time, the                                            people of the Ubud area already practiced                                            sophisticated wet rice farming, kept                                            a variety of livestock and employed                                            techniques of stone and woodcarving,                                            metalworking and thatching that are                                            still very much alive. Many of the dances,                                            dramas, puppet plays and elaborate rituals                                            and superstitions that animate Ubud                                            culture today originated in these early                                            kingdoms nearby.
                                       
                                         The Balinese legend of Rangda the witch                                            originated in the Ubud area at this                                            time, when the half-Balinese King Airlangga                                            ruled Java and Bali, with its capital                                            located then in Batuan, southeast of                                            Ubud. The Barong and Calonarong dances                                            which visitors still enjoy derived from                                            the story of Airlangga's struggle against                                            the plagues and evil spells cast by                                            Rangda, who is purportedly buried in                                            a tomb near Kutri, southeast of Ubud.
                                       
                                         The "Golden                                            Age" of the Majapahit Kingdoms
                                         Airlangga's sons divided his empire,                                            and Bali was ruled by Anak Wungsu, who                                            established a flourishing kingdom between                                            the Petanu and Pakerisan Rivers, east                                            of Ubud. This strip of land is regarded                                            as the richest archaeological and architectural                                            region in Bali, and is best explored                                            by making Ubud one's home base and renting                                            a car or motorbike for explorations                                            by day.
                                           
                                         The Javanese Majapahit dynasty "conquered"                                            Bali in 1343, when its military forces                                            led by the great hero, Gajah Mada subjugated                                            the Pejeng Dynasty, based in Bedulu,                                            just east of Ubud. According to Majapahit                                            reports, the "vile, long-haired                                            Balinese princes were wiped out,"                                            and more refined models of Javanese                                            culture were adopted. Indeed, a great                                            flowering of Balinese culture took place                                            under the Majapahit rulers, who were                                            chosen from the military leaders of                                            the Javanese incursion. Balinese genealogies,                                            known as babad, which were written at                                            this time on palm leaves, document the                                            Majapahit ancestry of Bali's aristocratic                                            families, who still inhabit the palaces                                            of Ubud.
                                        
                                         Facing the Islamisation of Java and                                            the subsequent decline of the Majapahit                                            Empire in the 16th Century, many scholars,                                            dancers, craftsmen, intellectuals and                                            priests migrated to Bali, bringing along                                            their skills and sacred texts. Many                                            settled in the small kingdoms in and                                            around Ubud, among them Nirartha, the                                            "super-priest" who is regarded                                            as the progenitor of all of Bali's pedanda                                            Siwa high priests and their prominent                                            Brahmana families. The seat of the Majapahit                                            overlord of Bali was moved from Samprangan                                            near Gianyar, to Gelgel, and Bali entered                                            a cultural "Golden Age" under                                            the Gelgel kings.
                                       
                                         Competing                                            Rajadoms Rise and Fall and Rise Again
                                         When Gelgel fell, and its remnants regrouped                                            in Klungkung, secondary kingdoms arose                                            throughout the island and engaged in                                            ongoing power struggles. In the early                                            18th Century, a palace was established                                            in Timbul, south of Ubud, by a descendant                                            of the Gelgel line. His ambition to                                            create a dream kingdom, based on the                                            ideal of Majapahit Java was more or                                            less fulfilled, as he drew to his court                                            the finest musicians, dancers, carvers                                            and artisans, and built a splendid palace                                            filled with lavish gardens. As the story                                            goes, his cultural accomplishments were                                            so great that upon witnessing them,                                            people could not help but exclaim, "My                                            heart's delight!" In Balinese,                                            "sukahatine." The word evolved                                            into "Sukawati," which is                                            now the name of this visionary king's                                            line of descendants, and the town where                                            he built his palace.
                                       
                                         Throughout the 18th Century, control                                            of the areas around Ubud and Gianyar                                            passed back and forth between the Sukawati                                            Dynasty whose princes are called "Tjokordas"                                            and the Gianyar Dynasty, with its "Anak                                            Agungs" and "Dewas".                                            Ultimately, the region became a patchwork                                            of small dominions ruled by princes                                            from one faction or the other, or the                                            scion of an intermarriage between them.                                            This is still the case, and while Ubud's                                            palaces house a core line of the Sukawati                                            family, other palaces in the region                                            belong to Gelgel-Gianyar stock or a                                            separate royal line from Blahbatuh.
                                       
                                         During the 19th Century, Ubud became                                            an important court under its Sukawati                                            feudal lord, owing allegiance to Gianyar.                                            In 1884 Gianyar was overthrown by Sukawati                                            princes from the nearby town of Negara,                                            and after ten years of conflict, a Sukawati                                            from the palace in Ubud sided with Gianyar                                            and cooled the conflict. Perhaps the                                            experience of centuries of adept politicking                                            between these two dynasties gave them                                            both the ability to understand the value                                            of diplomacy and compromise when the                                            Dutch asserted their power in Bali.
                                       
                                         Ubud as                                            a Darling of the Dutch Colonists
                                         At the end of the 19th Century, the                                            Dutch began to involve themselves in                                            Balinese internal affairs, fueling conflicts                                            among rival kingdoms, which collectively                                            were referred to as "The Wars of                                            the Rajas." The raja of the kingdom                                            of Gianyar, and associated feudal lords,                                            including the Sukawatis who established                                            the royal palace of Ubud, capitulated                                            to the Dutch and benefited by their                                            protection. To escape prevailing turmoil                                            elsewhere, artists, musicians and literati                                            took refuge in Ubud, and were welcomed                                            by eager patronage from the palace and                                            the Dutch colonial administrators who                                            stood behind and beside it.
                                       
                                         During the latter part of the 19th Century                                            and the first decade of this one, Bali's                                            kingdoms fell one by one to the Dutch,                                            following bloody battles, and in some                                            cases, ritual mass suicides called puputan                                            (meaning "finishing"). The                                            Gianyar region was spared from large-scale                                            tragedy, which in part accounts for                                            its cultural wealth and consistent prosperity,                                            not to mention the survival of its royal                                            bloodlines. Under Dutch colonial controllers,                                            Ubud was favored as a cooperative and                                            exemplary Balinese community, and the                                            palace was given relative autonomy to                                            preserve and develop traditional arts                                            and culture with the encouragement of                                            its colonial overseers. During the 20s                                            and 30s, Ubud was heralded as a cultural                                            hotspot, and became a chic destination                                            for
                                         adventurous foreign writers, anthropologists,                                            artists and other creative spirits and                                            culture vultures. Tjokorda Gede Agung                                            Sukawati opened the main palace of Ubud                                            to foreigners by creating within its                                            walls, Ubud's first hotel (still in                                            operation under the management of Tjokorda                                            Putra, a son of the last king).
                                       
                                         Yet Another                                            Era of Battle, International and Internal
                                         With the Japanese occupation from 1942                                            to 45, however, the celebration of a                                            new bohemian paradise was temporarily                                            suspended. Ubud's rulers both struggled                                            against and cooperated with the Japanese                                            in efforts to preserve their cultural                                            heritage and their sphere of influence.                                            When the Japa nese were defeated on                                            the global battlefield, the Dutch tried                                            to regain control, but on 17 August                                            1945 Indonesia declared its independence                                            under Sukarno. Four years of fighting                                            with the Dutch ensued, and many Ubudians                                            were imprisoned, including members of                                            the royal family, who took a leading                                            role in the Dutch attempt to establish                                            an alternative government in Bali.
                                       
                                         In 1949 the Dutch capitulated to the                                            new Republic of Indonesia, and once                                            again Ubud became very chic with those                                            in the know as the government of Bali                                            slowly opened its doors and its bank                                            accounts to tourists. In 1965-66, a                                            coup in Jakarta and its repercussions                                            led to a chaotic campaign to cleanse                                            Bali of "communists," and                                            at least 5% of its population was massacred                                            methodically or by mobs run amok. Ubud                                            was not excluded from the bloodbath,                                            which at times ran along class and caste                                            lines, and in certain interpretations,                                            reflected a consolidation of power among                                            the Balinese "of caste," in                                            response to the threat of a people's                                            movement demanding land reform and the                                            revocation of hereditary privilege.
                                         
                                            
                                           The World                                            Sends Its Curious to Call
                                           Beginning in the 1970s, a young generation                                            of backpackers began to arrive in Ubud                                            as they scoured Asia looking for inspiration,                                            mystical experience and a good place                                            to hang out. Ubud responded by providing                                            an increasing number of services to                                            accommodate the wishes of their western                                            guests. Cafes, bungalows and bars began                                            to appear, and young Balinese from Ubud                                            started to hang out with their foreign                                            friends, learn English, learn business,                                            and adopt whatever aspects of western                                            culture appealed to their aesthetic                                            sensibilities. In more than a few cases,                                            these Ubudians married their foreign                                            friends, and founded all manner of businesses                                            and other projects together -- not to                                            mention families. As a consequence of                                            the easy mixing of locals and foreigners                                            for decades, Ubud seems to have become                                            one of the most socially integrated                                            places in Southeast Asia. 
                                           
                                           The Prognosis                                            for Paradise
                                           The challenge for Ubud now, is to avoid                                            becoming a victim of its own popularity;                                            of being loved to death. It is undergoing                                            rapid development, and has been "discovered"                                            by a tide of jetsetters and successful                                            business people and glamour from around                                            the world, and from the increasingly                                            unpleasant Indonesian capital in Jakarta.                                            Land development is largely without                                            planning. Commercial forces hold sway                                            in most arenas. In reaction to the rapid                                            influx of foreign ways, there is a strong                                            current of reactionary neo conservatism,                                            leading the retreat into an accumulation                                            of increasingly expensive rituals and                                            their innumerable concomitant tasks                                            and responsibilities. Those who have                                            prospered from tourist dollars continue                                            to do so, and social and economic inequalities                                            are becoming uncomfortably apparent.
                                           
                                           Brand new BMWs park alongside rice fields                                            sprouting "For Sale" signs,                                            where women are bent double, cutting                                            crops by hand for about ten cents a                                            day. Elite, high-caste ladies wear silk,                                            French brocade and solid gold jewelry                                            to the temples. While they sip coffee,                                            gossip, and complain about their husbands'                                            alleged indiscretions with foreign lovers,                                            the men in question
                                           huddle in dark corners to answer hand                                            phones which are pressed tight to their                                            ears to shut out the sound of the gamelan,                                            their hands lavishly adorned by Rolex                                            watches and enormous rings.
                                           
                                         How Ubud's future takes shape will be                                          partly determined by the wider economic                                          and political milieu . Far more influential                                          will be the actions of its leaders, many                                          of whom are descendants of the Sukawati                                          royal family who still control vast tracts                                          of land and exercise various hereditary                                          privileges, not all of them uncontroversial.                                          These leaders have taken it upon themselves                                          to serve as the custodians of Ubud's cultural                                          integrity, and as such are the preservers                                          of much of its value. Their sensitivity                                          and their potential for benevolent and                                          humanitarian leadership will make or break                                          this town.